JAPANESE TEA & POTTERY EXPERIENCE

Photo of nationally recognized Japanese potter - Tokoname, Anagama Kiln

Japanese Tea Farm Internship

My profound fascination with tea culture, tea farming and pottery started a long time ago as a child growing up in the heart of Europe - Prague. The Czech Republic is a country with the highest concentration of tea rooms in the world (around 400). Nowhere in the west or east can you see so many tea rooms in such a small area. This early fascination recently led me to Japan, where I could immerse myself in traditional Japanese settings and absorb deep knowledge directly from tea farmers and pottery artists. 

I arrived in Japan at the end of the second harvest (also known as "second-flush", in early June. This harvest, known in Japan as "Niban-cha" is when black tea ("Koucha") is predominantly produced.

The second-flush tea is picked when the tea plant has been growing as daylight hours are getting longer. Because the tea plant experiences more hours of sunlight, the tea leaves contain more catechins (an antioxidant component) than first-growth.

Tea Growers in Japan

Summer time in Japan is very hot and humid, thus tea farmers work very hard to keep their tea fields cultivated. The first tea farm I visited was situated in a charming village in Shizuoka prefecture where I stayed for three weeks. I lived and worked with a deeply traditional Japanese family which has been making tea for 10 generations. The family has been practicing organic tea farming in the beautiful natural surroundings of Fujieda-shi. Shizuoka is one of the largest tea prefectures in Japan, second is Kagoshima.

What sets this organic farm apart is its steadfast commitment to sustainability. The absence of pesticides and herbicides in their practices makes pollinators like bees and butterflies essential. Each farmer here has their unique philosophy on nurturing tea fields, all rooted in a profound respect for nature.

Due to the fact I was staying at an organic farm, weeding is an important process. During this time of the year harvesting, processing black tea, trimming, weeding and composting are ongoing activities in the tea fields. Every farmer has a different philosophy on how to take care of their tea fields and what quality of tea they desire to produce. Typically, though, organic tea farming is very considerate of the natural environment.

Spending time at a tea farm in Japan is a wonderful life experience for people interested in tea culture and nature. Everyday contact with tea fields, its surroundings and with the hardworking people changes one's perspective of tea farming and life itself.

After my volunteering experience in Fujieda-shi, I visited another tea farm to deepen my knowledge of Gyokuro (the highest grade of Japanese shaded green tea) and also to practise Temomicha, an art of hand rolled tea. I arrived in Yame in Fukuoka prefecture which is famous for Gyokuro tea. First thing you can notice on arrival is that there are a lot of rice fields with a reason behind it. Traditionally, the finest Japanese tea Gyokuro is shaded for three weeks prior to harvest. Typically shading is applied in an elevated shelf structure built around the tea field. In the past it was common to shade with natural sheets from rice straw. I visited a few tea farmers who still practise traditional shading in this old world method. The rest use synthetic black netting. 

Gyokuro is usually harvested at the end of May. Traditionally it used to be picked by hand, and there are still a few tea farms that continue to do so today. As elevated shading structures allow more space for the new growth, tea bushes for Gyokuro may have 5-6 leaves of the new growth and it is common to pick them all, not just the bud and two leaves. In many cases tea fields for Gyokuro will only be harvested once a year to ensure that tea bushes remain healthy and vibrant, and are able to provide a delicious abundant harvest the following year.

Nowadays, the shading methods include both the traditional ‘honzu’ (canopy like structures covered with reed mats and rice straw), as well as black vinyl fabrics called ‘kanreisha’ (modern shading method adapted as shelf structure, tunnel or applied directly on top of the leaves). Both the ‘honzu’ and modern black vinyl shading methods have the effect of blocking the process of photosynthesis since the leaves are not hit by direct sunlight. As a result, amino acid (L-Theanine) components contained in the leaves can remain unchanged, ready to yield smooth and savory sweet flavors in the fully refined teas. 

Pottery, galleries and art  in Tokoname

After my intensive tea farming experience, I spent a few days in the famous ancient village of Tokoname in Aichi Prefecture, a quaint little pottery village that looks like an old picture from the 11th century and has been a center of pottery production since the Heian period. 

In Tokoname village you can immediately spot ruined monuments surrounded by collapsed furnaces and buildings overgrown with grass and flowers. These vestiges of the past now frame the city: one can see huge ceramic pipes connecting the narrow streets and hidden groves in the historic heart of Tokoname. Meanwhile, old brick kilns, rickety houses, hidden corner gardens and sleek modern homes all are full of earthenware: ornate tubs, toilets, fancy jars and bowls, cute cat figurines and peeping frogs. This is a city that exists between life and death, birth and rebirth. As I strolled the famous Sanpo no Michi (walking path), among the crumbling ruins of the past, I found  third-generation potters, experimental artists and independently owned cafes. The wind swirling through the narrow streets brings the smell of sea breeze, ovens and wet clay.

Arita -  porcelain village

My next stop I had longed to visit for many years was in one of the most famous porcelain villages in Japan. Arrita is a historic town located in the western part of Saga Prefecture on the island of Kyushu. It is renowned as one of the birthplaces of Japanese porcelain, and Arita porcelain is celebrated worldwide for its rich history and the exquisite craftsmanship of its wares. In Arrita I visited old kilns, the famous Kyushu Porcelain Museum and a porcelain quarry. The Kyushu Porcelain Museum stands as a testament to Arita's legacy, showcasing an exquisite collection of porcelain treasures that spoke highly about the town's rich cultural heritage. I also attended a newly launched exhibition of nationally famous porcelain masters. Their artistry, displayed with finesse, showed a profound connection between tradition and innovation.

I can clearly say that tea is not just a beverage: it is  also an experience. Whether you are a tea lover, ceramic enthusiast, or simply curious about the Japanese cultural tapestry, I highly recommend exploring more of these craft destinations for deep inspiration and lifelong memories. 

Written by Lucie Vanova